Curtea de Argeș… few cities have such a rich history.
It is proud of the title of first capital of Wallachia, a place with which famous personalities such as Neagoe Basarab, Negru Vodă, Mircea cel Bătrân, Radu I or Vlaicu Vodă are associated.
It is said that the city was founded in 1290 by Negru Vodă, the first lord of Wallachia and that the prestige of the place diminished with the relocation of the seat of the region to Targoviste. It also experienced a period of success, when the cathedral of Curtea de Argeș Monastery - the most important objective of the city - was declared a royal necropolis.
Remembering the melancholy hours of history, where we were told about the status of this city, we decided to run away from home on a weekend - to travel by train and find out what Curtea de Argeș currently means. .
We chose the option of traveling by personal train, regio and I paid 9.4 RON for a trip Pitești - Curtea de Argeș.
To cover this route of almost 40 kilometers, it was built in 1898 by the Italian architect and art critic Giulio Magni, the Train Station of Curtea de Argeș, an important historical monument that sums up Romanesque, Byzantine and Oriental architectural motifs.
Unfortunately, today, some architectural motifs have turned into fallen plaster, the station being in an advanced state of degradation. We did not want to surprise with the device the sad illustration of the negligence of the authorities.
Therefore, we continued our journey to Curtea de Argeș Monastery. It is located 30 minutes away from the train station, if you take it easy on foot (which we recommend, to become "participants" in city life).
Now, with the monastery is something else ... There is no Romanian who has not met the legendary verses of Alecsandri that are attributed to the construction of this place of worship:
„On Argeș down,
On a beautiful shore,
Negru-Voda passes
With ten comrades:
Nine great craftsmen,
Journeymen and masons
And Manoli - ten,
Which surpasses them. […] ”
What followed, we all know. The legend of Master Manole was born, spread in dozens of variants, which, however, retains a common core - the myth of sacrifice for creation.
Master Manole was told that in order to stop the futility of his work, he would have to sacrifice his wife, Ana.
After the materialization of God's command to sacrifice his wife within the walls of the monastery, Negru Vodă will force him to remain forever a prisoner on the roof of his own creation.
Master Manole did not obey and died trying to fly down with wings made of shingles.
Where he fell, it is rumored that Manole's Spring was born. Across the monastery road, it is arranged in the form of a fountain, a historical monument of the sixteenth century, with beautiful Byzantine inscriptions, which bears the name of the Fountain of Master Manole.
Returning to Curtea de Argeș Monastery, this is a spiritual place, surrounded by nature and history.
The quiet presentation that the priest makes inside the monastery, as well as the marble columns beautifully adorned with ornaments, paintings, icons transposed us into a quiet atmosphere.
For such a visit, the entrance ticket is priced at 2 RON for adults and 1 RON for children.
Hardly leaving behind the experience inside the monastery, we step into the courtyard, where we are greeted by the natural elements that emerged among the architectural details.
We advanced to the Episcopal Palace, also located in the park of the monastery. It was built in German style by King Carol I in 1886 and used in the past as a royal summer residence.
From the steps of the palace, you can admire the eastern part of the monastery.
Also in the park of Curtea de Argeș Monastery, at the Royal Archbishop's Cathedral, there is the new royal necropolis, which is not yet fully completed.
It represents the place chosen for the eternal rest of the royal family, comprising 16 eternal places. Carol I and his wife Queen Elizabeth, Queen Mary and King Ferdinand, as well as their son, Charles II, are buried here.
Taking one last look at the area, we continued our journey to a set of historical monuments, known as the Medieval Royal Court, located 20 minutes from the monastery.
Passing through the gates of the Royal Court, I met the oldest church in the city, namely the Royal Church of St. Nicholas (1351 - 1370), which belongs to the architectural style called the inscribed Greek cross, a style I learned once I arrived at this place. We liked the beautiful motifs arranged on the metal handle of the church door, of a red brick, details that urged us to visit the interior.
In the courtyard, there are ruins of the royal houses that belonged to the voivodes Neagoe Basarab and Basarab I.
Across the road from the Royal Court there is a ruin of a tall tower, a little scary to see and abandoned, but from inside which you can see part of the city.
Descending from the tower, we finally returned to the train station, happy that we were able to discern some of what Curtea de Argeș represents today.
Although some buildings have been literally abandoned, we recommend a one-day visit to the site that has long been adorned with glory.
A visit to Curtea de Argeș would, we hope, be an encouragement for the refurbishment and preservation of historical elements of unparalleled value.
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